Over the years, chef Evan Funke has risen to fame as a master of Italian cuisine, most notably with his restaurant Felix in Venice, a transcendent temple to handmade pasta. He also won wide acclaim for a limited-run pop-up restaurant in Hollywood called Fingers Crossed that was just what Angelenos needed in 2020.
At Fingers Crossed, he served his version of Roman food: simple pastas and pizzas and the occasional roast. In that vein, for our holiday issue he returned to the dish that first drew him acclaim here in L.A. when he served it from a food truck: porchetta, that fennel-and rosemary-scented pork roast ringed with crunchy skin. He served it on sandwiches way back when, but for this menu he went big, with a twelve-pounder that’s worth the effort and will take you from the holidays and possibly into the New Year.
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Porchetta
Says Evan Funke: “It’s nearly impossible to cook porchetta for a single meal, let alone a single meal for a small group. This large roast will provide multiple meals with many uses like sandwiches, cold cuts, pizza, and it can be cubed up and served with pasta. Speak with your local butcher to inquire about a pork loin, skin on, belly attached. When it comes to seasoning, be liberal with the salt, it will need to penetrate the meat. I’ve provided a salt variance here depending on the size of the pork section. You’ll need a digital thermometer to get this just right.”
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Focaccia di Zucca
While foccacia can be dense if you’re not careful, Funke’s is airy and delicate, and shot through with a vivid orange thanks to his clever use of squash juice rather than a heavy purée. Puréeing, straining, and diluting the liquid adds a step but for focaccia fans and bakers it’s worth it.
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Bucatini al Pesto di Broccolo Romanesco
Although not strictly traditional, this pesto provides an excellent complex backdrop for the additional romanesco florets. We substitute shards of crisp fried bread crumbs for finishing cheese for deep contrast of texture.